Lewis the Lion does a walking tour of Santiago

Lewis the Lion was happy when he arrived at Hostal Bella 269 in Santiago as not only was it good to for Helen to put down her heavy rucksacks after the metro ride from the bus station, but it was also the smartest hostel that Lewis had ever stayed in. The beds in the dormitory were just huge and so comfortable. Lewis was therefore not surprised to find some permanent residents staying in the hotel because they were studying in Santiago: Valeria from Peru, Helen from Korea and Anne from Australia.

On the reception desk were some maps and details of a free walking tour around Santiago’s historic centre. Lewis thought that that would be a great way to explore Chile’s capital city. So he and Helen made there way to the meeting point outside Santiago Cathedral at 3pm.

Lewis waits outside Santiago Cathedral

They saw their guide, Franco, immediately as he was wearing a bright red t-shirt with the words FREE TOUR emblazoned on it in white. He was very friendly and made Lewis and Helen feel very welcome to his city. There was about 20 other people in the group and would you believe it? Helen and Lewis bumped into a friend that they had met in the hostel all the way back in Buenos Aires: another Helen! What a small world this travellers’ world was! She was there with another friend Mel from Austria who she had been travelling with for a few weeks and they had both come along for the tour of the city too.

Mel and Helen in Santiago

So, Franco started off by telling the group that they were stood in a very important square: La Plaza de Armas which dates from the 1540s when Pedro de Valdivia (the Spanish Conquistador) had founded the city. The square is lush with trees, a central fountain, statues and is flanked by some impressive buildings such as the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Post Office building. However, more interestingly for Lewis the Lion was all the life that was going on around it.

He could see chess players,

Lewis the Lion watches all the chess games in la Plaza de Armas

children chasing pigeons,

Lewis sees the pigeons take to flight in la Plaza de Armas

shoe-shiners,

Lewis the Lion sees a shoe-shiner in la Plaza de Armas

artists with their art-stalls,

The art stalls in La Plaza de Armas

comedians entertaining the crowds and vagrants and drunks sleeping on the benches whilst stray dogs sniffed around.

It certainly was a great place for people-watching! See this video clip of some of the entertainment that Lewis saw another time while he was having lunch in a restaurant on the square: some spinning drummers.

Franco then told the group other funny stories about people who come to the Plaza de Armas such as the man who always comes to climb trees but can never get past a few metres or the man who climbed to the top of the Cathedral roof because he wanted the Chilean football manager to come back! Franco explained that for centuries this square had been the hub of life for the Santiago residents called Santiaguinos.

He then led the group towards a statue of Pedro de Valdivia. This was unusual because it showed him riding the horse with no reigns or bridle.

Lewis poses near the statue of Pedro de Valdivia, the Conquistador

This was to symbolise the fact that of all the South American countries that were colonised by the Spanish during the time of exploration, Chile was the most difficult to conquer: he just couldn’t reign it in. Pedro de Valdivia had a very difficult time due to the Mapuche tribe who were seen as barbarians. Indeed there was a civil war in Chile that lasted for 200 years! Pedro de Valdivia came to a brutal end when the Mapuche (or Araucanian) slave, Lautaro, who he had trained turned on him and led the Mapuche forces against him. Valdivia was hanged upside-down from a tree, skinned alive and Lautaro ate his heart as the Mapuche believed that by eating your enemy’s heart you also gained their strength. Very gruesome!

On the opposite side of the square, was a statue of Lautaro, the Mapuche leader, broken into pieces to reflect that many people in Chile today are still of Mapuche blood.

Lewis with the Mapuche statue of Lautaro

The impressive Metropolitan Cathedral standing on the square had actually been rebuilt, unbelievably, 5 times over: three times due to earthquakes (Santiago lies in an earthquake zone.) and twice due to the Mapuche tribe destroying it!

Other buildings in Santiago had also showed signs of earthquake damage as you can see from the cracks on this building.

Lewis observes the cracks from the earthquakes

As the tour group headed along a pedestrianised shopping area, Lewis the Lion noticed an interesting poster advertising Mother’s Day.

Lewis spots a poster advertising Mother's Day

In the UK, Mother’s Day is usually celebrated in March time but in Chile, it is celebrated in May. Lewis the Lion wondered why this changed from country to country?

Mother's Day in Chile is celebrated on Sunday, 13th May 2012

Do you know why?

Next, Lewis the Lion came to the Palacio La Moneda (The Government House) where there were Chilean flags flying and carabineros (armed policemen) on guard.

Lewis outside the Government House - Palacio La Moneda

Franco explained how the politics of the past had shaped the people of Chile, noticeably under 30 years of Pinochet’s dictatorship rule up until 1993. Some people supported Pinochet’s rule for Chile’s economic growth but many families lived in fear as many people disappeared during this time. Even though today Chile is a democratic country, it is difficult for people to forget this period of Chilean history.

Lewis learnt that the president before Pinochet had been Salvador Allende and had his photo taken by his statue. He was recognisable for his big framed glasses.

Lewis by the statue of the former president, Salvador Allende

Outside the Palacio La Moneda was a dog that was fast asleep on the pavement and Franco went on to tell the group that stray dogs were well looked after in Chile.

Lewis sees a stray dog sleeping in the street

That they were given their vaccinations and food. Lewis the Lion was pleased to hear this news, especially as he had seen so many stray dogs without this support in South America already.

As the tour group progressed along, Franco stopped at a sweet-smelling stall.

Lewis sees the Nuts 4 Nuts stand

It was a honey-roast peanut store, Nuts 4 Nuts, and the man who invented this stall (for which there are many now in the world) is one of Chile’s greatest millionaires! Lewis the Lion thought that was impressive that from such a small idea, this man’s enterprise had grown into something so big. Apparently, from time-to-time, this millionaire turns up unexpectedly to still sell his Nuts 4 Nuts. Lewis the Lion thought that that was great!

Nuts 4 Nuts!

The tour then took them past the pretty Santa Lucia Hill (where he spotted another lion!)

Lewis spots another lion in Santiago near the Santa Lucia Hill

to a trendy art district in Santiago, the Lastarria neighbourhood, where there were restaurants, cafés and little boutiques selling alternative designs.

Lewis with the chili dress in Chile!

There was also a small flea-market where antiques and books were being sold. Lewis the Lion thought that this was a very pleasant part of town and especially when he stopped off at a famous ice-cream parlour which made all sorts of weird and wonderful ice-cream flavours, e.g, peppercorn ice-cream, bitter orange ice-cream and smurf-flavoured ice-cream!

Lewis the Lion checks out the unusual ice cream flavours

By now, the light was starting to fade as the tour took the group through one of Santiago’s pleasant parks which ran along the river into the Bellavista neighbourhood (which is also home to the Bellas Artes – the Fine Art – Museum).

Lewis outside La Bellas Artes Museum

This too was a very busy part of town with stalls, restaurants and universities. From here, Franco pointed out some traditional Chilean restaurants to try out and also the house of a very famous Chilean writer, Pablo Nerudo. (See Lewis in one of his next blogs on Chilean food and Pablo Nerudo’s houses).

In the distance was also the impressive hill of San Cristóbal and Lewis the Lion would look forward to climbing there another day. For now, after four hours of walking around, he was tired and starting to get cold. So, he said ‘gracias’ to Franco and tipped him for his tour guide and then said ‘ciao’ to his friends Helen and Mel and he would look forward to more adventures another day.

Which part of your city or town do you like to visit and why?
Is there a particular place where you like to sit and watch the world go by?
Describe it.